When buying a suit, you will need to consider its main purpose, as well as what other occasional uses it might have. Will it be worn regularly worn at the office and rarely at formal occasions? Alternatively, do you specifically want a suit for days out in the country or evening attire? Thinking about the use if your suit will dictate choices regarding its cloth, colour and other style options, so it is important to have this clear in your mind to get the best from your wardrobe.
At Regent we are not sticklers for rules, but when it comes to style, there are some basic guidelines that, if you follow, can guarantee a good fit for the majority:
The shoulders of a jacket are crucial. These can’t be altered at a later date without affecting the structure of the jacket, so make sure that the shoulder pads do not extend pass the shoulder. The jacket collar at the back should also show half an inch of shirt and rest flat against it. There should be no ruching between the shoulder blades or any collar gap. Across your chest, you should be able to fit your fist between your chest and the front of your jacket comfortably.
Jacket and sleeve length are another indicator of a good fitting jacket. The bottom hem of the jacket should be at the same level as your knuckles, so when you place your hands down by your side the base of the jacket rests in your curled-up hand. For the sleeve, it should reach the wrist bone with half an inch of shirt cuff visible.
For a smarter silhouette for formal trousers, it is best to choose side adjusters to tighten or let out the waist; the option of belt loops tend to be more appropriate for casual trousers. Of course, with a bespoke service you can choose whichever style you feel most comfortable with. Flat-fronted trousers are usually the favourite (particularly with Savile Row tailors), but pleats can flatter a larger frame as well as provide a modern twist when styled with a slimmer leg.
Trouser length depends on your width as well as your personal preference. A shorter hem, typically favoured by those who prefer a more traditional cut to prevent it swinging around the ankle, now have become the latest fashion inspiration, with shorter trousers and rolled up hems proving equally popular. Whilst we would recommend having the hem angled towards the back to prevent too much of a break at the front, turn-ups need to have a straight bottom so that it sits flat on top of the shoe.
A collar that is too tight, as well as being uncomfortable, is an instant give away of a poorly fitting shirt; ensure that you can fit a finger between your neck and the collar for comfort. Another common, and painful, mistake is to go for a shirt that has an excess of fabric across the torso. A narrower cut across the chest and stomach, with seams that finish at the end of your shoulders, will provide a much better silhouette.
For short sleeve shirts, make sure you don’t go too wide on the sleeve. A narrower sleeve creates a smarter and more contemporary look that can be crossed over from work to casual and evening. The ultimate shirt? We recommend a Kent collar, single cuff sleeve, double gusset to the front with butterfly gusset on the side to create a narrow fit that isn’t too tight.